31 used & new fromDetailsDelta Faucet RP24096 Stem Unit Assembly FREE Shipping on orders over $49. 3.5 x 2.5 x 0.9 inches #3,224 in Home Improvements (See top 100) #1 in Home Improvement > Rough Plumbing > Faucet Parts > Trim & Repair Kits #271 in Home Improvement > Contractor Supply See all 224 customer reviews See all 224 customer reviews (newest first) Quality product that is an easy install and works as it should; nothing else much to say.Stop those leaky faucets. I like to change these wit the stem. Got the job done This is about the only thing that make Delta faucets drip when turned off. I usually have to replace them about every 5 or 6 years. Cheaper than buying a new faucet. An inexpensive and easy to install fix for my dripping faucet. These Delta faucet seals fit well and stopped the annoying drips as expected. Had a leaky Delta shower, new valve was $60! I took a shot at replacing these seals as it appeared this is where the leak would be.

works as it should, no complains. KISSLER RP4993 Delta Faucet Seat and Spring Kit Delta Faucet RP24096 Stem Unit AssemblyFoxhound Pups For Sale Australia See and discover other items: sink valve, shower faucet cartridge, bathroom faucets under $50Bobcat For Sale Oregon Determine which side of your faucet is leaking by shutting off the water supply valves one at a time. Diablo Shower HeadIf the leak doesn’t stop after the first valve is turned off, it’s the other line that’s leaking. Once you determine which side is leaking, turn off both supply valves. If your valves are stuck, shut off the water main. You will have to replace hardware for both sides since you won’t be able to identify whether the hot or cold side is leaking.

Disassemble the Old Faucet Turn faucet handles to the “on” position to release any residual water. Close the drain and place a towel in the sink to protect the surface and catch any dropped parts. Remove the aerator and inspect it for damage. If it’s stuck, soak a towel in vinegar and wrap it around the aerator to help loosen mineral deposits. After an hour, gently twist the aerator with a towel and pliers. As you disassemble the old faucet, lay the parts in order on a flat surface and snap a picture for reference. Then, put those parts in a plastic bag and take them to the store with you when shopping. You may only require one part, but it may be best to buy a kit and replace everything, including a new aerator if yours is damaged. This type of faucet uses a cylinder with tiny discs on the bottom that control water flow. The most successful repair typically replaces the entire cylinder. Loosen the set screw and remove the handle. Unscrew the retainer nut or mounting screw and pull out the cylinder.

Set a new cylinder into place and reassemble the faucet. With the faucet knobs in the “on” position, slowly turn on the water supply. Too much initial pressure can damage the new hardware. Compression & Reverse-compression Faucets In this repair, you’ll replace the washer and O-ring or gasket on the valve stem, as well as the valve seat in the faucet. Remove handles or knobs by prying off the temperature indicator cap and removing the screw. Pull the handles off the base. Some handles are removed by backing out a set screw. Loosen the retaining screw with a wrench and take out the valve stem. On the stem, remove the screw, washer and old O-ring. Add plumber’s grease to the stem and install a new O-ring and washer. Remove the valve seat with a seat or hex wrench and insert a new one. Unscrew the set screw to remove the handle. Remove the retaining clip or nut. Gently pull out the cartridge and replace it with a new oneWith the faucet knobs in the “on” position, slowly turn on the water supply.

Good to KnowWhile you have the faucet disassembled, it's a good idea to replace the seats and springs below the cartridge.  They're inexpensive and adding new ones should ensure your repair is complete. After reassembling your faucet, run the water for a few minutes to clear debris from the new parts. If your old aerator needs cleaning, soak it in white vinegar to remove buildup and deposits. Rinse it before installation. I just installed a new tub fixture set: There are two controls - one for temperature and one for volume. The large handle is volume. When the diverter valve is engaged the shower sprays properly and no water comes from the spout: But if I disengage the diverter and run the water at full pressure, the spout flows but there is still a slow shower from the shower head: However, if I reduce volume enough: (note the angle of the volume control) the shower stops dripping: Is something wrong with my installation, or am I right in suspecting that I simply have too much water pressure in my house?

I've checked all the plumbing from behind (the wall behind the tub is open) - there are no leaks. plumbing shower bathtub water-pressure plumbing-fixture What did you use to connect your tub spout? I plumbed my bathroom with Pex and was heavily cautioned NOT to use Pex to run from the main valve to the tub spout because it would create exactly the issue your describing. Since the inner diameter of Pex is slightly less than regular copper (or threaded brass fittings, which is what I used) it will create a slight flow restriction to the tub spout and (inadvertently) divert it to the shower head. It seems to me that it boils down to the basics... you have a certain volume of water at a certain pressure. If the diverter is fully open, and there is more water coming through than it can handle, then there is overflow going to the shower. The water pressure can't be more than what is available coming in, so that should be regulated for the whole house; if it's too high, valves could fail elsewhere.

If it's correct, then this can't really be the problem (directly). So, it must be a matter of pipe sizes or diverter valve capacity. There must either be an obstruction at or after the diverter valve, or the pipe going to the shower is too small and fills up, so to speak. If the pipe going to the shower head was bigger, it would act as a reservoir and take more water before it overflows out the shower head. It may be that there is simply too much water coming to the shower, and a flow restrictor leading to the valves, or limiter on the valves is needed. I don't know if the valves have a way to limit the water. The main question would be whether there is lots of water coming out of both the shower head and the tub outlet when the valve is at the setting that does not come out of the shower head when it shouldn't. Sorry this isn't exactly a full answer, but it's too much to put in a comment, and I thought it might be helpful for troubleshooting the problem. The volume of water to the tub spout can be too high creating back pressure which leads to water dripping or pouring out of the shower head.