2 Does each panel have both the trellis print and the solid color on it? No, the solid panels and trellis panels are both sold separately with 2 panels per package.The image above shows a pair of Trellis Print Grommet Top Insulated Curtain Pair and a solid pair, sold separately.These stripy curtains add details of designer fabric without the price tag. By combining three half-yards of with a bed sheet, I was able to stretch my budget with nice results. And Gordon won’t mind, the best fabric is right at his eye level!Here’s how to make your own Striped Grommet Curtains…Lay everything out and measure. My window was 75″ tall but I wanted the rod above the top frame and I wanted the bottom to hit the bottom of the window apron (the molding directly below the window sill) so my finished curtain needed to be 80″ tall.For width, I used the width of a twin sheet and cut it in half to make two panels. A good rule-of-thumb is that you want your fabric to be twice to three times the width of the window space it will occupy.

A full size sheet would have made a fuller curtain. 1. Cut your 1/2 yards of “designer” fabric in half the long way. This will give you a stripe for each panel. The teal, I cut in thirds for a thinner stripe. 2. Serge the bottom two stripes together along the long edge, right facing. If you don’t have a serger, straight stitch 3/8″ seam. 3. On the back side, fold the seam over to the side of the darker fabric and iron flat. If you are sewing, fold the seam in half and then iron flat, hiding the raw edge. 4. Whether you are serging or not, straight stitch the seam down for a top-stitch effect. 5. Finish the bottom edge with the serger or iron a 1/4″ hem. 6. Iron a 1″ – 4″ hem depending on how much you have to spare. I did 1″ and it worked fine. 7. Straight stitch the hem. 8. Like you just did with the bottom edge… on the top stripe, finish the top edge with the serger or 1/4″ seam. Iron a 1″ – 4″ hem. I only did 1″ because I was using the top cuff of my sheet for the top of the curtain.

If you are using regular fabric for your main pane (no cuff), you will want to iron a 4″ seam. That way you will have at least 2 layers of fabric through which to attach your grommets.9. On the bottom edge of the top stripe, iron a 1/4″ hem. 10. If you haven’t already, cut your sheet for the main panel down the center. Note how I folded the sheet several times the long way for a manageable single cut through all layers. My mom taught me that.11. Also trim the sides and bottom if your sheet has seams. 12. Wrap the top seam of your top stripe over the top of the sheet. See the thickness of the sheet’s cuff? 13. Straight stitch the top stripe of fabric to the sheet along the top and bottom of the stripe. 14. Now we are going to attach the bottom stripes to the main panel but first, now is a good time to double check your measurements and trim your main fabric for length or straightness 15. With right sides facing, serge bottom of main panel to top of bottom stripes.

Alt: Sew with 3/8″ seem.16. Iron the seam over to the darker fabric and topstitch as described in step 3& 4. 17. Trim the sides of any uneven fabric. 18. Serge along sides. Alt: iron 1/4″ seam. 19. Fold over (and iron) and sew 1/2″ seam on both sides. Be sure to keep the very top and bottom of your seam very even so they don’t show from the front of the panel.Scroll-Embroidered Sheer Curtains 20. These snap in curtain grommets are so easy and look so professional. White German Shepherd Puppies For Sale MnSpace out and trace the grommets (or measure and make dots if you are more the math-y type) MAKE SURE YOU USE AN EVEN NUMBER.Vertical Blinds 'Elegance' Range 21. If your kit comes with this little template, use it for draw your cutting (eeek) circles.

22. Take a deep breath and cut out your circles. 23. Insert one side of the grommet from the back and snap the other side on with your hands. And doesn’t that look sharp?Hang them and you are done!Edit ArticleHow to Install Curtain Rods Two Parts:Setting Up for SuccessInstalling CorrectlyCommunity Q&A Just when you thought it was safe to look forward to the weekend, you realize that this was the weekend you were buying and hanging curtains. Well, not to worry, it's easy to do, and won't take nearly as long as you thought. We'll show you how and what to hang and how to make the process go smoothly. Just get started with Step 1 below.You'll want to decide what style of curtain is right for you, if you have not yet purchased your curtains and curtain rods. There are a number of styles, each giving your room a different flavor and functioning in a slightly different way. Some of your options include: Drapes are typically made from heavy material and are pleated, which requires a traverse rod.

To hang, you must place drapery pins in the pleat, and then hang them on the rod. A cord allows you to pull the drapes open and closed. Panel curtains, eyelet curtains and tab top curtains are meant to hang from a plain round rod. They may have a pocket along the top to push the rod through, or the rod may be threaded through eyelets or tabs. Panel curtains may end at the top or bottom of the windowsill, extend to the floor, or be even longer—a style known as puddling. Cafe curtains cover only the bottom half of a window, to let light into the room while affording some privacy. They are popular on kitchen windows and are typically hung on rods installed inside the window frame on tension rods. Door panels have pockets on the top and bottom and require 2 curtain rods, which you install on a door or simply attach with magnets. Door panels are often used on french doors and sidelights. Decide where you want the bottom of your curtain to fall. When buying curtains, keep in mind that their length should cover the entire window (unless they are cafe curtains).

If you buy tab top curtains, make sure the curtain length doesn't include the length of the tabs. Floor length curtains end 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) from the floor unless you live in a humid environment, in which case they should end 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the floor, because they will stretch more on humid days. If you plan to puddle your curtains, you only need to ensure you have plenty of material left over for the puddle. Curtains that hang below the sill should extend 4 inches (10 cm) below the sill, long enough to cover the edge of the casing below the window. Sill-length curtains should skim the sill. Consider how far you want to be able to draw back the curtains. If you'd like to pull them completely away from the window, buy a longer rod or a rod that has a return (a 90-degree turn on each end that allows you to push the curtain around the turn or rest against the wall). The length of the return should depend on the type and width of the curtain. Choose whether to install the rod on the casing or the wall outside the casing.

Installing in the casing will always leave at least part of the window obscured, while installing outside the casing allows you to pull the curtains back completely. Which you choose will partially be determined by the style and look you want, but you may also have to account for the material of the wall or casing. If you have plastic window casing, the curtain rods will need to be installed on the wall. If you have plaster, cob, or stone walls, then the casing may be easier. Bear in mind that the curtain will only draw back as far as the brackets holding the curtain rod, whether or not you have a return, and the style of the curtain will determine how much they can be compressed. The amount you can compress a curtain is called the stack back. You may want to keep part of the window covered even when the curtains are open, or you may prefer to completely expose the window to let as much light into the room as possible. Measure for the height of the rod. Use a measuring tape.

Determine where the top of the curtain will be from where you want the curtain to end: at the sill, below the sill or on the floor. Bear in mind that some styles of curtains have ruffles or pleats that extend above the top of the rod; subtract this section from the measurement. Mark this point on both sides of casing or wall with a pencil. Use a laser level to make sure your marks are even. Mark where the brackets will go. When you're sure of all your measurements, use a pencil to mark where the screws will go. Be careful not to get too close to the edge if installing in the casing, as this will make the material too fragile and cause the wood to crack. Add a mid brace if needed. Consider the length of the rod when hanging the brackets. Though most curtain rods are adjustable, you don't want the distance between the brackets to be so wide that the rod sags in the middle. In general, you shouldn't increase the length of the expanded  rod by more than 50 percent. Drill pilot holes to help start the screws.

This can keep the screws from cracking the casing or wall material. If installing the brackets on the wall, make sure your pilot holes are big enough to place the screw anchors into, if you need to use screw anchors. Screw anchors are only necessary if the rod brackets are spaced in such a way that they cannot be attached to the wall studs. If you want to avoid using screw anchors, make sure that your brackets are spaced to go just 1-2" beyond the casing. Screw the brackets to the casing or wall. If installing them on the wall between studs, you need plastic screw anchors. These will expand inside the dry wall panel to the weight of the rod and curtains and will prevent the screws from pulling out of the wall. Otherwise, you can simply use the manufacturer included or suggested mounting screws.Fit the rod onto the brackets and then use a carpenter's level to make sure that the rod is even. It should be, as long as you measured for level when marking the locations for brackets.