Cost to Install a Wax RingUpdated: June 2016 Wax Ring Installation Cost CalculatorZip Code Rings Wax Ring Labor - Basic Wax Ring Materials and Supplies Totals - Cost to Install Wax Ring - Average Cost Per Ring Get an INSTANT, detailed estimate of the cost to Install a Wax Ring! Our free calculator uses up-to-date, trusted data to estimate typical subcontractor costs for a Wax Ring Installation project. For a basic 6 rings project in zip code 47474, the benchmark cost to Install a Wax Ring ranges between $95.58 - $119.56 per ring. Cost to Install a Wax Ring - Notes and General Information Costs to prepare the worksite for Wax Ring Installation, including costs to protect existing structure(s), finishes, materials and components. Labor setup time, mobilization time and minimum hourly charges that are commonly included for small Wax Ring Installation jobs. General contractor overhead and markup for organizing and supervising the Wax Ring Installation.

Cost to Install a Wax Ring - References Unit Pricing Data: Faucet Direct Plumbing Fixtures and Supplies Faucet Direct, Jun 2016, Website Unit Pricing Data: Kitchen Source Plumbing Products and Supplies Kitchen Source, Jun 2016, WebsiteClawfoot Tub Antiques Sale Unit Pricing Data: Plumbers Stock Products and Supplies Plumbers Stock, Jun 2016, WebsiteSlow Carb Weight Loss Plateau Unit Pricing Data: Lowes Plumbing Products and Supplies Lowes , Jun 2016, WebsiteHouse For Sale In Stanly County Nc Unit Pricing Data: Westside Online HVAC Pricing McCoys, Jun 2016, Website The HUD PATH Rehab Guide Volume 8: HVAC/Plumbing U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development Office of Policy Development and Research, Mar 2011, Editorial Staff

NKBA Bath Planner the National Kitchen and Bath Association, Jul 2012, Wax Ring Installation - Average Cost Per RingTo lower Wax Ring Installation costs: combine related projects, minimize options/extras and be flexible about project scheduling. What is a reasonable cost for installing a new floor flange and reseating a toilet? My toilet was leaking around the base. The plumber said that a new floor flange had to be installed. Then the toilet was re-installed on the new floor flange.I was billed $535. Is this considerd a a resonable charge. I believe it at least over $100 too much. OK - are you talking a floor flange (a metal plate the toilet bolts down to) or the wax ring that acts as a gasket between the flange and the toilet ?To replace the wax ring and reinstall the toilet would usually be about $100 - maybe $150 in large cities and high-cost areas - normally a minimum visit charge plus about $5 for the wax ring.If the flange was corroded so bad it was not holding the mounting bolts, then the cost would depend on how much trouble it was to replace.

If it turned right off, with or without the nipple (short piece of pipe it mounts to) then the cost would have been little more than just replacing the wax ring - maybe $10-20 more for the parts. However, if he had to open up the ceiling below or go into the basement or whatever and break it free from there, that would have been maybe an extra half hour to hour.Not having seen what it took to fix it, and what pipes may have broken when he tried to break it free, I would be reluctant to bad-mouth the plumber, but normally replacing the flange (and wax ring) would be a $250-300, 2 hour range job, so yours is definitely over the norm, to say the least. Beyond that, one would have to know exactly what had to be done (or how long it took) to say if it was "fair" or not.I presume in all this there was no drywall repair and painting involved in the $535 - if that was included to repair the hole he cut, then you are getting into the reasonable range - at least $400+. Answered 3 years ago

The toilet and flange our mounted on a concrete foundation. Would this involve clearing concrete around the sewer pipe to possibly repair the pipe to accept a new floor flange? OK - I totally spaced on the possibility of it being in a slab.It definitely involved some concrete removal, in all likelihood - without knowing what he took out hard to tell, but if he had to cut through the concrete to remove the flange and the first piece of pipe then you are in the reasonable price range. If the flange was badly corroded by some leakage, then it is quite possible one of two things happened - the first piece of pipe below it was corrroded too so he replaced it as well, or if you sewer pipe is plastic a corroded flange can come off so hard that you can break the plastic pipe below it, so he might have had to dig out more than a little concrete to get room to cleanly cut that off and put on another piece of plastic pipe, then the nipple and flange. If he was working at this for 4 hours or so or you saw him mixing grout to repair the floor, that is probably what the case was.

This is one of those cases where at first blush the price seems too high by quite a bit, but if you look into it in depth there may be a perfectly legitimate explanation. Can't say more than that without pictures of what the situation was - unless he was in and out in an hour or two I would assume this was legit and curse your luck that it happened in a basement toilet. Sounds reasonable considering the concrete. However replacing the flange yourself is an easy job. I recently used the Culwell Flange to replace the flanges in all of my bathrooms. It seals to the floor. Has anyone used this flange?Know Before You Shop for Wax Ring Replacement Supplies Whenever you remove a toilet for any reason, replace the wax ring seal between the toilet and the toilet anchor flange (sometimes called a closet flange) attached to the floor.Made from a molded wax loop around a short plastic tube, wax rings are pretty foolproof, inexpensive and shape themselves to fit almost any toilet and floor drain.

They also resist mold and bacteria and retain their sealing ability after years of use. Does your toilet wobble from side to side? If your toilet rocks enough for one side of the base to lift off the floor — even just a bit — you may have a broken toilet anchor flange. As a precaution, pick up a flange repair kit. Replacing a sheet vinyl floor with something thicker, such as ceramic tile, can create a gap between the toilet and the toilet anchor flange. If that’s the case, add a flange spacer to fill the gap. Once you drain the toilet tank and unhook the water supply, it’s a good time to replace the flush valve. Fixing a leaky valve can save hundreds of gallons of water a day. To test the valve before turning off the water, tint the water in the tank with food coloring, and let it sit for 10 minutes. If any colored water leaks into the bowl, replace the valve. If you’re removing the toilet because of a leak at the base or water damage in the ceiling of the floor below, inspect that damage before you head to the store.

Water can harm a subfloor enough to affect the strength of the mounting bolts attaching the toilet anchor flange — and the toilet — to the floor. Determine whether you need to cut away the damaged subfloor and replace it. Check the condition of the mounting bolts that attach the toilet to the floor. If they’re corroded, you’ll need a can of penetrating oil to help loosen them. Even if they’re not visibly corroded, plan to replace the bolts as a precaution. Some wax rings come in a kit that includes new mounting bolts. Drain and Remove the Toilet Shut off the water supply to the toilet at the supply-line valve beside the toilet or at the main water source. (If you don’t have a shutoff valve, see shut-off valve installation story for tips on how to install one.) Then flush and sponge the water from the tank until it’s dry. Use a plunger to force most of the remaining water in the bowl down the drain and sponge out the rest. A wet /dry shop vacuum empties toilet tanks and bowls in an instant.

Check the manufacturer’s instructions for how to set it up to suction water. Detach the water supply-line hose from the toilet tank and catch any water in the line using a bucket or towels. Loosen and remove the nuts holding the toilet to the floor. If the bolts have corroded, first apply penetrating oil and allow it to seep over the threads for a few minutes before loosening the bolts. Apply only moderate pressure to loosen the bolts. Anything more may bend or break the toilet anchor flange. If you’re working in an awkward space or the toilet appears too heavy to lift, consider removing the bolts attaching the tank to the bowl and moving the two parts separately. Before lifting the toilet, place four 2 x 4 x 6 blocks on edge on the floor to hold the toilet drain off the floor. Choose a corner of the bathroom away from the drain to give yourself room to work. Angle the blocks slightly so they won’t tilt as you rest the toilet on them. Carefully lift the toilet while keeping the base parallel to the floor.

Check the drain to make sure the old wax ring isn’t still attached. Set the toilet on the blocks. CautionIt’s hard to empty everything from the drain trap that loops from the bowl to the floor drain opening. That’s fine as long as the toilet base remains parallel to the floor, but tilting it back and forth can spill water from the trap all over your floor. Install the New Wax Ring Wear a pair of disposable gloves to remove and discard the old wax ring. (It’s extremely sticky and, let’s face it, was under your toilet for years.) Provide plenty of ventilation and use a plastic putty knife, followed by a rag soaked in mineral spirits, to clean any remaining wax from around the toilet anchor flange and the drain on the bottom of the toilet (if you’re reinstalling it). Remove the old mounting bolts and check the toilet anchor flange for damage. After you remove the old wax ring, immediately plug the drain with a ball of rags or an old towel large enough that it doesn’t fall into the pipe.

An unplugged drain can allow noxious sewer gas to enter your home. Remove the old bolts from the toilet anchor flange and check the flange for cracks or missing pieces. Install any repair parts or spacers as needed before inserting the new toilet mounting bolts. CautionYou wouldn’t think something as heavy as a toilet could fall over, but it can if not anchored down. A broken flange means a useless anchor bolt, so install a flange repair kit if you notice leaks or wobbles. Again wearing a pair of disposable gloves, press the new wax ring into place around the raised ring at the bottom of the toilet drain on the underside. Seat it firmly enough to hold it in place, but don’t press it out of shape. Lift the toilet with the bowl drain directly over the floor drain and lower it in place with the mounting screws coming up through the holes in the base. Press gently and rock it slightly to help the wax ring form a tight seal. With the toilet base firmly against the floor, attach the washers and nuts holding the toilet in place.