Disassembling a contemporary bath/shower faucet can be like solving a puzzle. Bath and shower faucets come in a variety of attractive designs that carefully conceal the screw that holds on the handle. If the faucet is leaking, though, find that screw you must. Once you've accomplished this task and uncovered the valve, you'll find a cartridge, and your next challenge is to extract it so you can clean or replace it or replace worn washers and O-rings. If the faucet hasn't been serviced for a long time, this can be a formidable task requiring a special tool. If it comes out easily, though, the repair itself isn't complicated. Cut off the water to the faucet, either by turning off the main water shutoff valve for the house or one for the line that supplies the bathroom. Open the faucet to relieve water pressure before you disassemble it. Look for the set screw that holds the handle to the faucet stem. It may be behind the faucet lever or underneath it. If you can't see one, it must be under a cap, even if the cap isn't obvious.

Look for a groove around the front of the faucet and work the tip of a flat-head screwdriver into that groove to pry off the cap. Unscrew the screw that holds the handle with a Phillips screwdriver or an Allen wrench. Slip off the handle, then pull off the temperature-limiting disk, if there is one. Pull out the retaining pin that holds the cartridge with needle-nose pliers. Some cartridges are held by a collar that you can unscrew with adjustable pliers. Wrap a rag around the collar before unscrewing it to prevent damage to the finish. Grip the valve stem with pliers and pull the cartridge straight out. Be sure to note the orientation of the cartridge before you remove it so you can put it back the same way. It is designed for easy removal, but if it's old, the O-rings may have fused to the valve housing, and you may need a cartridge extractor to get it out. Work with an extractor recommended for your faucet by the manufacturer. Inspect the cartridge, and if it's full of mineral deposits, soak it overnight in white vinegar to dissolve them.

The deposits can prevent the cartridge from sealing out water and may be responsible for the leaks. If you notice pitting or cracking on the cartridge, replace it. Cut the old O-rings off the cartridge with a utility knife and replace them with new ones. Coat the new washers in plumber’s grease to make it easier to slide them on. Extract the rubber gaskets from the valve seats inside the valve housing with a flat-head screwdriver and replace them with new ones. Vacuum Cleaner Song LyricsReplace the cartridge by pushing it in as far as it will go, and replacing the pin or screwing on the collar. Full Length Body Mirror WalmartReset the temperature limiter and replace the handle and cap. Ice Forming On Ac CoilsTurn on the water and check for leaks.

When that drip, drip, drip threatens to send you over the edge, some people call the plumber. And some people (you know who you are) get out their tools and tackle it themselves. In this video, Delta’s own Mr. Fix-it, Mark Oliver, demonstrates how to repair a leaky faucet. We can help you get rid of that drip, drip, drip for good A constantly dripping faucet won’t only drive you crazy but it will freak Mother Nature out, too. Even a small faucet leak can waste up to three gallons of water each day. Stop the mini waterfall in your kitchen or bath with these step-by-step instructions for repairing a single-lever handle ball (non-cartridge) faucet, the most common household type. Before you start:
 Pick a spot where you can lay out parts as you deconstruct the faucet. Keeping them in order of removal will make it easier to put everything back together later. Snapping a photo before each step will also come in handy when it’s put-back-together time. Step 1: 
Look to see whether the spout is dripping—this is the most common cause of a leak.

If it is, you may just have to tighten the handle’s adjusting ring. If that doesn’t do the trick, you’ll need to change out the faucet’s seats and springs. Step 2:
 Shut off the hot and cold water supply valves, which are usually silver knobs under the sink. Turn on the faucet to drain any water in the lines. When you’re done, close and cover the sink drain with a small rag to catch any small parts you may drop as you’re working. Step 3:
 After removing the screw cover on the faucet handle, use a screwdriver to lift off the actual handle. (If your faucet has a hex screw, you’ll need an 1/8-inch Allen wrench to remove it.) Step 4:
 Once you lift off the handle, you’ll see a cap and adjusting ring. If water is leaking, tighten the ring with needle-nose pliers. If that stops the leak, hooray! If not, get ready to replace the faucet’s seats and springs. Step 5:
 Remove the adjusting ring and unscrew the dome-shaped cap. If you’re having a tough time getting it off, soak a rag in a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and water, and wrap it around and over the cap.

This should loosen any mineral deposits that are making the cap stick. Use channel-lock pliers in quick, short bursts to break the seal. Just don’t exert too much pressure or it will bend. Step 6:
 Remove the round metal stem and pull out the ball and cam and packing. If the faucet is leaking from under the handle, replacing the cam and packing should solve the problem. Step 7: 
Look down into the bottom of the valve and you’ll see the seats and springs. Insert an Allen wrench into the rubber seat, tilting it slightly to catch the spring. Lift out the seat and spring. Do this for both hot and cold sides. Step 8:
 To insert a new set of seats and springs, thread one set onto the Allen wrench through the flat side of the seat, then through the skinny end of the spring. Hold them on the wrench and tip them into their hole in the valve. Repeat with the other side. (Need to see it to believe it? This video walks you through the process.) Now replace the ball assembly, then the cam and packing.