Faucet & Plumbing Repair Services Just tell us about your needs and we'll quickly match you to the pre-screened, San Jose Plumbing Installation and Repair Services you can trust to get the job done. Extraordinarily professional, Most reasonable, and very perfect approach to the job. He was very punctual for his appointment and was prepared to execute the job, though the appointment was to check out and provide an estimate.Jaime was there within 10 minutes of me placing a request on service magic, provided me with a good estimate and explanation of what needs to do. Actually saved me a TON of money by just repairing my faulty shower assembly instead of replacing it like another plumber had told me. I hired Fantastic Rooter and they reapired a leak under the sink-- did great job- repalced rusted out pipes- price was right- on time- GREAT!! Average Price to Install, Repair or Replace Plumbing or Fixtures: More San Jose Plumbers More California Faucet & Plumbing Repair Services

What is the small project? (Check all that apply) Is this an emergency? For repairs, what best describes the problem? For installs or replacement, which items are needed?2" glass squares, 1" stone squares and 1/2" Travertine pencil strips.Also opened up Kitchen to Dining Room. This remodel also included the a new Guest Bath and ... Hollywood Hills, CA ... Recent Requests for Faucet and Plumbing Installation and Repair in San Jose, California:Why Am I Getting Only Cold Or Hot Water From A Newly Installed K-304-KS? This is a pressure balancing valve, in order for a pressure balancing valve to function correctly, equal pressure must be applied to both inlets on the valve. You should have a minimum of 45 PSI on both hot and cold. Verify the stops are open (turning left). The K-304-KS features integrated screwdriver stops that allows the user to turn the water on and off right on the valve. If the stops are closed (turning right), water will not pass through that port.

After checking water pressure and stops, make sure the internal components are installed properly and are not damaged. The installation instructions require the removal of the pressure balancing unit and mixer cap prior to soldering the pipes to the valve. If this was not done, the parts may have been damaged; this is not a defect of the valve, however installation damage and voids the warranty of the parts.Cockapoo Puppies For Sale In Birmingham West Midlands Click Here For Maintenance And Service PartsMobile Homes For Sale Lake Macquarie Help TopicsAccessoriesBathingFurniture/Cabinets/MirrorsDTV/Steam Misc/Policies/ProceduresShower DoorsSinksToilets/Urinals/Bidets/SeatsVideosIETMs (Interactive Electronic Technical Manuals)Topic #: 5641-1254Date Created: 11/24/2010Last Modified Since: 12/02/2014Viewed: 8524Persian Kittens For Sale Ireland

Edit ArticleHow to Repair a Delta Brand Kitchen Faucet How to replace all of the gaskets and springs in a Delta brand Single-Handle kitchen faucet. These are also called "ball faucets." Purchase a replacement parts kit from a reputable hardware store, such as Home Depot. Carefully close the shut-off valves beneath the sink. Using the allen wrench supplied in the kit, loosen the set screw that holds the handle in place. The plastic ring inset in the chrome-dome is adjustable and can be used to increase or decrease the pressure on the internal components. Remove the chrome-dome by turning counter-clockwise. Gently remove the plastic disc which sits on top of the ball. Gently remove the ball. In the bottom of the socket you should see two black rubber pieces. Insert the new springs into the two holes. Repeat item #9 for the other washer. Gently remove the faucet arm from the upright shaft by pulling upward on it while rotating it.

With the faucet arm removed you will see two large black washers that encircle the upright shaft. Replace the faucet arm by pressing down firmly on it while rotating it side to side. Replace the ball into the socket keeping the alignment of the ball in mind. Seat the large black gasket into the plastic disc and then seat the gasket & disc assembly onto the ball. Loosen the plastic ring inset into the chrome-dome. Install the chrome dome. Tighten the chrome-dome onto the assembly. Tighten the plastic ring inset so that things are tight, but nothing binds. Replace the handle onto the shaft and tighten with the allen wrench. Check to make sure that you don't have any extra parts. Turn on the water at the valves and check for leaks. Clean up after yourself and put your tools away. Remember, nothing in this whole procedure should be hard to do except removing and replacing the chrome-dome. If anything else seems hard, check your alignment.

Store the old parts in a Ziploc bag in case of failure.First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case. Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement. OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber. First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. 

If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood - 1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl.

Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done). 2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking.

If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body. 3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet. Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes: 1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl.

As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber. 2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed.

May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl. 3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank. Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required).