I love the period details in my Victorian apartment, but I don’t need a discolored, chipped bathtub to remind me of the history of the place. (I have sloping floors and drafty windows for that.) A few weeks ago, I was batting around some small remodeling projects with a friend who was staying with me. I wondered aloud about refinishing my bathtub, and she quickly chimed in: “Yes, that would be good!” Hint taken–and in anticipation of more guests soon arriving for the holidays–I got to work. Here’s a look at my project, followed by instructions, should you, too, be feeling ambitious. Word of warning: This project is not for the faint of heart. It takes a full day of work, plus three days to dry. The refinishing fumes are toxic, and you’ll need to wear a respirator mask. And though the tub looks 95 percent better after my labor, it still isn’t perfect. I would only recommend refinishing your bathtub yourself if at least two of the following three apply to you: You’re at least a little bit handy–let’s say you have a strong painting resume.

You’re extremely patient, or at least refuse to give up. You’re someone like me who hates not knowing how to do things and won’t be satisfied until you’ve tried. Does this describe you? Photography by Liesa Johannssen. Above: The fruit of my labor: A refinished tub with new caulk and accoutrements for houseguests. Photography shot with the Canon EOS 70D digital SLR camera, with Dual Pixel AF technology and built-in Wi-Fi.Battery Operated Lights For Sweater Step One: Make plans to shower somewhere else for three days. Digital Camera Repairs SuffolkYou’ll absolutely want (and need) to shower after completing this task, and the epoxy has to cure for 72 hours. Black Boxer Puppies For Sale In Wisconsin

Lucky for me, I have nice neighbors. Step Two: If your existing caulk is worn, strip it. Mine was moldy and looked if it had been applied by someone with his eyes closed. I first used a chemical caulk remover to soften the existing caulk and within seconds, I got some in my eye. It was an early reminder to wear goggles; the chemicals in this project only get worse. Once I could see again, I removed most of the caulk with an ingenious little Caulk-Away tool, and scraped off remaining residue with a sharp Putty Knife. Step Three: If you have chips and cracks in your tub as I did, you’ll want to apply chip repair before you get started. Step Four: Clean the tub. Mine not only had heavy evidence of the showers of tenants past, but was full of paint splatters and stray globs of caulk from sloppy maintenance jobs. I scraped everything off with a plastic putty knife, then followed the bathtub refinishing kit’s directions to wash, dry, sand, repeat. It’s critical to do a good job or the epoxy won’t adhere.

This is where the bulk of your time will go today. Step Five: Prepare the bathroom for Armageddon. Mask off anything you don’t want covered in tiny white flecks. (In reviews, some commenters were surprised by how far the epoxy traveled, so I heeded their warnings and covered everything. Turns out it was overkill; if you’ve spray painted something before, expect the same amount of overspray.) Step Six: Lock up the men, kids, and pets, open the windows, and turn on the fan. Make sure your space is well-ventilated. The refinishing fumes are strong and you’re going to need a respirator. I can’t sing the praises of mine enough; I truly didn’t know what the epoxy smelled like until I left the bathroom and took the mask off, it worked that well. Don’t forget chemical goggles and gloves. Step Seven: Follow the directions that come with the kit and spray paint the bathtub. Rest assured, once you’ve prepped, this is the easy part. If you get any epoxy drips from spraying too heavily, dab them away with a sponge.

I was glad to discover that the toxic smell didn’t linger for long. I don’t have any direct ventilation in my bathroom, but with a standing fan blowing air out three open windows in the next room, all chemical odor was gone within 90 minutes. Step Eight: Use Lacquer Thinner to clean up any errant epoxy, and wait 72 hours for the finish to cure. Once it’s dry, re-caulk the tub if you removed your old caulk. Thoroughly wash the surface so the silicone will adhere and pass over it with rubbing alcohol. I used GE White Kitchen and Bath Caulk, which is shower-ready in three hours; $6.24 at The Home Depot. Above: The “before” bath was scratched, discolored, and surrounded by moldy caulk. Here, I’m midway through the process of removing the old grout. Above: It’s a delight to bathe in a tub with bright white walls and mold-free trim; I’m sure my holiday guests will agree. Enamel bathtubs are not scratchproof, so avoid using a scrubbing brush. Instead use a specially designed bathroom cleaner like those from Cif and Domestos on a sponge or cloth to tackle dirt and stains.

This will help to remove stains without damaging the enamel! Always test on a small inconspicuous area before widespread use. There’s nothing better than a long soak in the bath to keep us relaxed and sparkling. However, if your bath is grubbier than your body, the only thing you’ll be thinking about is how to clean enamel – hardly an indulgent thought at the worst of times. Fortunately, learning how to clean enamel bath suites doesn’t have to be a chore, and while soap scum and water stains may be common signs of a well-loved tub, they don’t exactly suggest the best environment to wash away the worries of the day. Luckily with a little everyday care, you’ll never need to ask how to clean a bathtub again. So then you can sit back, relax, and feel assured that the hard work’s already been done next time you go for a soak. How to Clean an Enamel Bath Whenever you are cleaning enamel or a large area, be sure to ventilate the space by opening windows and doors.

Protecting yourself is essential and it’s always worth covering your hands and face with gloves and protective eyewear. There a number of effective cleaning solutions available that specifically target bathroom grime like products from Domestos and Cif. Always carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions and test any new product on a small inconspicuous area first. Apply the solution with a sponge or clean cloth, avoiding abrasive scourers or steel brushes as these could scratch and damage the surface of your bathtub. Avoid contact with skin and always follow the safety guidelines listed on the product. Once clean, wipe and rinse away the cleaning product to prevent any lingering residue and discolouration. How to Clean an Enamel Bath with Natural Products While commercial cleaning products are completely safe to use, there are plenty of natural, household ingredients that can help do the job too. Spraying a solution of water and white vinegar all over the bathtub provides an effective deep-clean that can help treat stains or residue.

Leave the mixture to rest for 15 minutes before wiping off with a clean sponge or cloth. Rinse and wipe as before. Heavy stains and rings might need tougher action. To attack this, try sprinkling baking soda on the problem area and spray with your mix of white vinegar and water. The mixture will bubble and fizz, letting you know the solution’s working. After 15 minutes, wipe away with a clean cloth or sponge and thoroughly rinse and dry the bathtub with warm water. How to Clean Bathtub Rust Rust is a little trickier to shift than your everyday scum and grime, but easily tackled nonetheless. Commercial cleaning products specifically made for removing rust are extremely effective, but be careful to wear gloves and don’t mix with other chemicals. Always read the instructions on the product carefully and be sure to ventilate the area well. Avoid contact with skin. Everyday Care for Your Bathtub After bathing, rinse the bathtub with clean, warm water and sponge away excess moisture to prevent drying stains.