I've been fixing leaking faucets in a bathroom. There are total six faucets in a bathroom, two made into a bathroom basin, two made into the wall in the shower tube and the last two are on the wall on top of the mop sink. I have fixed the leaks with basin's faucets but was unable to do it with other four faucets because have failed to remove the faucet covers. They seems to be stuck. To get a better grip I wrapped some duct tape around the chrome covers and then used the spanner - but to no avail. Tried the strap wrench - no luck too. I thought it could be the silicon sealant that glued the covers to the wall - but after I have removed most of the sealant (used the sealant remover to soften the sealant and then putty knife) it has not not changed the situation at all as the cover is still stubornly refusing to unscrew. Any ideas how can I get these covers off? Can you recomend some special tools? I was thinking about a type of a pipe wrench for cone shaped pipe (as the cover is shaped as a cone)?

plumbing bathroom bathtub duct-tape Go to your local hardware store and purchase a strap wrench: The rubber strap wraps around and grips the cover. Then you rotate the wrench anticlockwise to unscrew the cover off the tap. The strap prevents scratching of the finish which would normally occur trying to unscrew the tap with the jaws of a regular wrench. There are also regular-style wrenches with soft jaw fittings that may also be used. I agree with B Mitch that a photo would be really useful. There's often a set screw in an inconspicuous spot on the faucet handle (I'm guessing what I call a handle you call a cover?). Double check for that - it could be covered by grime, but should otherwise look like a small allen wrench head. Use a mirror to make sure you're getting a good look at the backside and underside of the handle. The other possibility is that there's a small plastic "decorative" cap covering the screw. On my kitchen sink, the hot and cold faucets each have a red or blue ring around it - that's masking the indentation where you put in a screwdriver to pop off the chrome-finished top.

The faucet is probably held in place due to build up of sediments over the years in the threads. Have you given WD-40 a try? Spraying a a good amount in to the threaded area could help to loosen up the various gunk that is keeping them stuck in place. You might be able to use a propane torch to heat up the parts and loosen them. If the covers are that tough to remove, it might be that they are too far gone to salvage and you will just have to break them off. I've had success removing these with generous applications of CLR to eat through any calcium, lime, and rust deposits that may be worked into the threads. The hard part is to get the CLR to maintain contact with the affected areas for a long enough time to get the deposits to dissolve. I've had mixed success with a saturated rag wrapped around the faucet, and better success with a shallow pan containing CLR (diluted as directed) that I submerged the faucet threads under for an hour or so. Just put some scrap blocks or something under the pan in the sink to get the liquid to the right height.

Browse other questions tagged plumbing bathroom bathtub duct-tape or ask your own question.Antique Kitchen Sink Faucet - Servicing Antique Kitchen Sink Faucet - Servicing Turn off the water supply. Apply pressure to the side of the cap to dislodge and remove it. Remove the O-ring from the collar. Remove the screw and washer, and lift out the lever handle. Remove the collar by pulling it firmly upward. Spread and remove the bushing.Best Hardwood Floor Cleaner No Residue Unthread and remove the retaining nut.Vertical Drape Parts Lift the spout assembly off the faucet body. Exotic Pets For Sale In Sacramento CaTo ease removal, slightly twist the spout assembly as it is lifted. Grip the diverter nut with a pliers to unthread it from the faucet body.

Pull the diverter from the faucet body. Insert the diverter into the faucet body, rubber end first. Thread the diverter nut into the faucet body to secure the diverter in place. Slide the spout assembly over the faucet body. If needed, slightly twist the spout assembly as it is installed to make sure it is fully seated. Place the spacer in the top of the spout assembly. Install the retaining nut. Place the bushing over the valve stem and snap it in place. Push the collar over the bushing, aligning the handle slot with the slot in the bushing. Insert the lever handle into the collar and over the valve stem. Secure the handle to the valve stem with the washer and screw. Install the O-ring onto the top of the collar. Reinstall the cap onto the collar. Tilt the cap to engage one side first, then fully snap it into place. 1015073-10-A  ©Kohler Co.Help TopicsAccessoriesBathingFurniture/Cabinets/MirrorsDTV/Steam Misc/Policies/ProceduresShower DoorsSinksToilets/Urinals/Bidets/SeatsVideosIETMs (Interactive Electronic Technical Manuals)Topic #: 5641-2287Date Created: 02/04/2015Last Modified Since: 02/16/2015Viewed: 1303Print TopicEmail this topic

Help Desk and Customer Support Software by ParatureA GREAT many kitchen sinks are equipped with faucets that have separate spray attachments connected to the base of the faucet under the sink. These are designed so that pushing down on a lever or valve on the spray head diverts water from the regular spout to the spray head, which is attached to a flexible hose so it can be pulled out and moved around inside the sink. When this spray no longer works properly, or when it works only spasmodically, most people mutter under their breath and then simply stop using this attachment, figuring that there is little they can do about the problem without calling in a high-priced plumber, or replacing the faucet entirely. However, repairs are usually quite simple to make once you understand how this device works. Replacement parts, when needed, are widely available in many hardware stores, as well as in all plumbing supply outlets. The mechanism that controls the flow of water is a small valve called a diverter valve.

It is situated inside the body of the faucet, usually directly under the base of the swing spout, as shown in the drawing. It can move up and down inside its chamber, much like a piston, and is activated only by water pressure on each side of the piston. When the spray head is not in use, pressure is equal on both sides of the piston so the valve allows all water to flow past it and out through the regular faucet spout. However, when the lever or valve is pressed to activate the spray, an imbalance of pressure is created inside the diverter assembly (more pressure on one side of the piston than on the other) and this causes the piston to move down and close the opening leading to the faucet spout. All water then flows through the hose that leads to the spray head (in some cases a small trickle of water will continue to flow out of the faucet spout). If the water is not diverted to the spray head when you press down the spray lever or button, so that most of it is still coming out of the faucet spout, the first thing you should check is the strainerand-aerator assembly on the end of the faucet spout.

Dirt or sediment in this unit could be creating a back-pressure that keeps the diverter valve inside the faucet from operating properly. The simplest way to check for this is to take the aerator completely off (it unscrews easily). Then try the spray again with this off. If the spray now works fine, then you know the aerator needs cleaning or replacing - chances are the little screen on the inside may be partly clogged with dirt, or sediment may have become caked inside the little holes around the inside rim of the aerator. You can usually clean it by holding it upside down under a strong stream of water to backflush it. But if you can't get it really clean, replace it with a new one. When your test (without the aerator) indicates that this is not the source of the problem, the next thing to check is the openings on the spray head itself to see if it is clogged or broken. Usually the nozzle can be unscrewed so that you can clean it by running water through it in reverse; otherwise you may be able to clean the holes out with a round wooden toothpick.

If you are unable to clean it out, or if the head is cracked or broken and therefore leaks when in use, then you should replace it with a new one. The old one can be unscrewed from the end of the hose, and the new one screwed on its place. If neither the faucet aerator nor the spray head is the cause of the trouble, the next item you should suspect is the hose under the sink that connects the faucet body to the spray head. Make sure it is not binding or kinking when you pull the spray head up out of its socket on the sink top, and make sure the hose is not split or cracked at any point. If it is, buy a new one and replace it (the hose has a threaded fitting at each end, so it is not difficult to unscrew). When none of the steps taken thus far have solved the problem, then you know that the trouble is in the diverter valve assembly. Shut off the water and unscrew the threaded collar at the base of the spout, then lift the spout off completely. In the opening under the spout you will see the stem of the diverter valve sticking straight up (see drawing).

Grasp this with your fingers, or with a small pair of pliers, and lift it straight out; then take it to your local hardware store and buy a new one that matches. Before installing the new diverter valve, put the spout on temporarily (without the diverter valve in place) and turn the hot water on for a minute or so to flush out any dirt that may be trapped inside. Now shut the water off and remove the spout again, then drop the new diverter valve into place (with the stem pointing up) and replace the swing spout in it original position. Answering the Mail Q. Several years ago our wood kitchen cabinets were painted with a good-quality semigloss enamel. Cleaning has dulled the finish, so the cabinets need painting to restore the sheen. Is there something we can apply on top of the new paint that will help preserve the appearance and thus make maintenance easier? A. You could apply a coat of wax over the paint after a week or so, but I should warn you this will make repainting more difficult next time.

Every bit of the wax will have to be removed first, otherwise the new paint will not dry or adhere properly. A high-gloss enamel will hold its sheen better than a semigloss and is more stainresistant. You should also try using a milder detergent when you wash the paint - strong detergents attack finishes more than milder ones do, and those that contain a lot of ammonia will dull the finish more than other cleaners do. Q. Two years ago my roses had black spot disease, so I sprayed them with a special fungicide sold by garden supply houses to get rid of this. Now the cedar siding on the house has black spots, so I tried spraying with the same fungicide, but it helped only slightly and the problem seems to be spreading. What do you suggest? - V.L., Westport, Conn. A. I don't know about roses, but I do know that the black spots on the house are undoubtedly mildew. You can get rid of this by scrubbing with a solution of one part liquid laundry bleach and four parts water. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.