Removing a broken or outdated surface-mounted towel bar or soap dish is easy. “inset” fixture (mounted directly to the tile backer board) is a much bigger job that we won’t coverTo see whether yours is surface mounted or inset, check the fixture edges. If you see grout, it’s most likely an inset mount. may have applied caulk around the grout, jam a putty knife into a bottom corner of the fixture and tap it with a small hammer. If you hit grout or the edge of the fixture’s “inset,” stop and recaulk. putty knife doesn’t hit anything hard, move on to Tape off the tile around the fixture to protect itThen fit your oscillating tool with a flexible scraper blade and slide it under the fixtureOnce the fixture is off, remove heavy caulk buildup with a single-edge razor blade. apply caulk remover (one choice is Motsenbocker’s Lift Off Silicone, Latex Caulk & Foam SealantLet the remover work for three minutes, then scrape the residue with a

Apply more remover and scrapeWipe the tile with a clean rag wetted with the remover, remove the tape and call it done. Replace a cracked, sagging or ugly towel bar Ceramic towel-bar anchor posts rarely fail. But the plastic bar can snap, sag, develop cracks, fade or discolor as it ages and is exposed to cleaning chemicals. The original bar is one piece, and since the ends are locked into place, you can’t just slip in a new one. But you can buy spring-loaded replacements that can be cut to length and snapped into place like the bar in a toilet-paper holder. is one online source). If the old bar is still in place and just ugly, sagging or discolored, simply cut it off. Then measure the distance between the ceramic posts and the depth of the post depressions. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to determine the cut length. Note: Don’t use the old bar as a template (it didn’t have spring tensioners). Next, cut the bar to length (photo 1): Mark the cut length on the new bar;

cut the bar by hand with a hacksaw to prevent chipping; clean up the inside and outside edges with a utility knife before inserting the spring tensioners. Pop the bar into the ceramic posts (photo 2): Insert the new bar into one of the ceramic posts and push until you compress that side’s spring tensioner; depress the other side’s spring tensioner with a flat-blade screwdriver and slide the bar into the other ceramic post.Midwest Moving Storage CalgaryBe sure to scroll down... there may be more than one question on this page!Dance Studio Mirrors For Sale Philippines There are different ways of fastening this type of fixture, depending on theOutdoor Candelabra Led Light Bulbs fixture itself and the wall material.

First, you will have to take the towel bars down to see why the failure is occurring. Fixtures on ceramic tile are installed in two ways. In the good old days, they were set into plaster as part of the tile job. most installations are surface mounts, with the ceramic fixtures mounting on the surface of the tile by means of metal brackets. It's easy enough to tell if the fixture is mounted on a bracket. look underneath the fixture. You'll see the grooves and hollow space underneath where the metal bracket slides in. Tapping gently upwards with a block of wood or rubber mallet should release the fixture from the bracket. (1) If the fixture is set in plaster... Plaster failure will require you to remove the fixtures from the wall and reset them in plaster of Paris or construction adhesive. If the plaster in the wall is still solid and only the fixture released, you can probably use construction adhesive. Remove any dust before gluing and be sure both surfaces are dry.

adhesive as you can without causing it to squeeze out from the back of theProp up the fixture to keep it in position until the adhesive dries. Use your imagination… masking tape or a carefully cut board are twoWhatever you use, put something soft on the floor beneath the ceramic fixture just in case it falls. You will probably never get a match in color or size if this one crashes! If, in your judgment, there is not enough plaster backing for adhesive to work, mix up a batch of plaster of Paris... at least a few cups... and slather it thickly onto the wall and the fixture. Press the fixture back into place and wipe off all the excess plaster before it firms up... within 5 or so minutes depending onProp the fixture in place until the plaster sets hard... at least an hour or so. Don't stress it for at least 24 hours. (2) If the fixture is held up by anchors... If the fixtures are held up by anchors, chances are the existing wall anchors

are not the right type, and tightening will not be effective. anchors have to be upgraded to a sturdier type. If the original anchors are plastic expansion anchors, you can install Molly bolts in their place. bolts are metal anchors that expand in the wall as the screw is tightened. strongest installation would be with toggle bolts. Toggles are spring loaded and open inside the wall. If you are unfamiliar with these anchors, take the bar and/or base plate to the hardware store and ask to see these types of anchors. personnel can give you hands on help. Return to NH's Question and Answer Index Written by Jerry Alonzy Jerry Alonzy, a.k.a. the Natural Handyman, has been an active handyman for over 30 years with experience in most areas of home repair and renovation. As a do-it-yourself author and web developer since 1995, he has been featured in USA Today, the Today Show and on radio shows, magazines, newspapers and websites. His material appears widely on the web, but primarily on his website...