Edit ArticleHow to Fix a Leaky Toilet Tank Six Methods:Fixing a Leak from Where the Tank and Bowl ConnectFixing a Leak from the Toilet HandleFixing a Leak Around the Flush ValveFixing a Spraying Ball CockFixing a Spraying Refill TubeFixing a Leak from the Shutoff ValveCommunity Q&A Water pooling around the bottom of a toilet may come from a variety of locations on the tank. Determine the location of the leak and then proceed with the appropriate repair. Fixing a leak in this location involves simply tightening the nut or replacing the washer. Find the nuts that connect the tank to the bowl. Use a flathead screwdriver to steady the bolt. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the nut. Replace the washers if water continues to seep out. Replace and tighten the nut. Toilets control water height using a float ball, a water-intake assembly or a metered fill valve. Any of these may cause leaks from the toilet handle. The overflow pipe may also be too long.

Adjust the positioning for the float ball. Check to see if the float ball is too high. If the ball is too high, water is running into the overflow pipe and out of the handle. Bend the float ball arm down slightly so that the water comes up to about 1” below the overflow pipe. Flush the toilet to ensure that enough water gets into the bowl. If the water level is insufficient, then adjust the float ball arm up slightly until the tank fills with water. Lower the water level by adjusting the Water-Intake Assembly. Pinch the clip attached to the thin metal rod. Slide the clip and the cup down to lower the water level. Move 1” at a time.If the water level is not sufficient, adjust the cup slightly upward. Adjust the knob of the Metered Fill Valve. Turn the knob counterclockwise 1/4 of a turn using a screwdriver. Adjust the knob 1/4 turn counterclockwise until the water is below the overflow pipe.If the water level is insufficient, adjust the knob slightly clockwise until enough water fills the bowl.

Check the Overflow Pipe. Check to be sure that the overflow pipe is 1/2” below the handle. Use a hacksaw to shorten the pipe, if needed. A damaged flush valve assembly will have to be replaced. This will require removing the toilet tank. Place towels on the floor to catch excess water. Turn off the water supply to the toilet.Homes For Sale By Owner Aberdeen Sd Flush the toilet to drain the tank.Brittany Puppies For Sale In New Jersey Loosen the nuts for the supply tube using an adjustable wrench.English Labrador Retriever Puppies For Sale Ohio Loosen the nuts that hold the tank on the bowl, keeping the bolt stable with a flathead screwdriver. Lift the tank off of the bowl.

Replace the flush valve assembly by first removing the old flush valve assembly and unscrewing the locknut on the bottom of the tank. Cut the pipe to 1/2” below the top of the tank using a hacksaw. Place plumber’s putty on the washer at the foot of the new flush valve assembly. Push the assembly against the tank opening. Tighten the locknut with a monkey wrench. Replace the tank by first placing the tank back on top of the bowl and tighten the nuts that connect it to the bowl. Turn back on the water supply and fill the tank. Flush the tank to ensure that the leak is gone. The ball cock is attached to the float ball and controls the flow of water into the tank. Flush the toilet to empty the bowl. Remove the screws that surround the ball cock assembly. Move the float arm out of the way, if needed. Remove the washer or the diaphragm from the valve plunger with a screwdriver. Clean sediment from around the ball cock using white vinegar and a small brush.

Replace the washer or diaphragm and the ball cock. Simply replace the tube and cut it to the appropriate length to stop the spraying. Purchase one replacement refill tube of the same diameter as the old tube. Remove the old tube. Replace the old tube. Before disassembling the entire valve, try tightening the packing nut in the center of the valve 1/8 of a turn clockwise to see if that seals the leak. Remove the packing nut to disassemble the shutoff valve. Turn the valve stem to remove the piece from the wall using groove joint pliers. Remove the washers that encircle the valve and clean them. Replace clean washers or install new ones and then reassemble the valve. Turn the water supply back on to check for leaks. Install the new valve according to the manufacturer’s guidelines. Toilets may develop condensation on the exterior of the tank during hot weather or when you’re taking a very hot shower. This “tank sweat” is harmless.

However, you can eliminate the problem by insulating the interior of the toilet tank. Nuts can be easily damaged during the repair process. Wrap masking tape around the grips of wrenches and pliers to avoid damage. Also, do not turn the nuts too forcefully, or you will risk breakage. I recently noticed some water coming out of the hole where the handle is on my toilet. Curious, I decided to take a peek. When I took the lid off of the back of the toilet and flushed, water started spraying out of the top of the float valve. I put the lid back on, flushed again, and I could see a small stream of water coming out of the handle. I see two ways of approaching this, but I would like to get your recommendations. I suspect that this has been happening for a while, perhaps even before the previous tenants (this is in an apartment complex). Buy some sort of gasket or plug to put in the hole where the handle goes in to prevent water from coming out Buy a new float valve, and see if it still occurs.

Because this is an apartment complex, I'm a bit weary about buying a new float valve. I am also a fairly new into living on my own, and perhaps don't know the proper terminology. Is option 1 feasible, and if it is, do I have the proper terminology, or is there a more appropriate alternative? Here is an image of the float valve Here is an image of it spraying And the trail of water on the tank The seal at the top of the valve has failed. Normally a small portion of the incoming water should go through that small tube off the side, while the rest of it should come out the bottom of the valve. None of it should be sprayed about like that. If it were my toilet I'd see if I could take that top off and try to fix the seal, but I wouldn't try very hard, because it looks like a cheesy valve, and new ones are around $10-$15. If it were my landlord's toilet I'd tell the landlord about it. A good way to prompt some action would be to note that the toilet is leaking and probably causing damage to the floor.