< 1 2 3456789 > 1 posts, read 151,253 times Originally Posted by ByteRider I have been in the industry for more than 15 years on the Gulf coast and i totally disagree. Not just anyone can replace a compressor. First how do you know it's the compressor? Second, what caused the failure? Was it a burnout? Why would I need to know if it was a burnout? What must I do if it was a burnout? Not to mention the possibility of electrocuting yourself. Next you use 15% silver solder not 50%. What are the dangers of soldering? What happens with oil residue in the refrigerant lines? What happens when flame is introduced to freon and freon residue in the lines? Ever heard of phosgene gas? What about the Oxygen Depletion Potential of freon? What about how inhaling freon causes heart arrhythmia? What about refrigerant recovery and disposal? What about evacuating the system? A/C systems, are very susceptible to moisture and other non condensibles. How are you going to purchase replacement freon with no EPA certification?

What about the life threatening dangers of freon? How much freon do you add? You just can't go by the factory charge on the nameplate. You have to take into account many factors and then calculate your super heat and subcooling in order to achieve a proper charge. There are so many things to consider before trying to tackle something like this. If injury or death doesn't deter you, then the fact that you did it yourself will probably void any warranty that come with your $1000 compressor should. I can look up how to do an appendectomy online and get step by step instructions but I'm pretty sure most people would agree to just get someone who has been properly schooled and trained to do it. This is not like changing a fuse or the oil in your car. You could die or even possibly kill someone else many different ways if you don't know what you are doing and I would never recommend a compressor change out as a DIY project for a novice. 16,739 posts, read 46,615,361 times 1 posts, read 151,139 times

9,224 posts, read 34,826,474 times Originally Posted by archcolin By yesterday's standards, a 2ton unit would probably be OK. Carpet Cleaners Rental WalmartBy today's standards there no telling without a physical inspection of the home. Door Panel Curtains At WalmartCalculating a house for A/C requires a Manual-J worksheet.Indoor Festoon Lighting There are a lot of factors that are used in the calculation- # of doors and windows. Wall construction and insulation. compass direction (solar gain), etc. Then there's the Manual-D for the duct system. and finish all your calculations with a Manual-S. Today, there is no reason to guesstimate. By doing a thorough calculation you will have a system that works at peak performance with minimal operating expense.

2,398 posts, read 4,448,953 times Actually a license is only required if your system uses R22 freon, which of course most old systems do. If you have or are replacing with system with a R410-A refrigerant, no license is required. So long as your not touching a R22 system, your fine. If your replacing a R22 system with a R410-A system you need a licensed HVAC contractor to recover the R22 refrigerant from the old system before removing it. Originally Posted by ComfortZone1971 If you haven't mastered the mysteries of the circuit broker or equipment disconnect, you probably shouldn't be doing anything yourself. Pretty much anything you touch now a days voids the warranty. I wouldn't mass with the R22, but I wouldn't let a little thing like voiding the warranty stop me from working on it. Originally Posted by TechGromit I know the EPA would love to talk to you! You are required to have an EPA Section 608 Type II or Universal certification license to handle R-410A but no license is legally necessary for purchase.

"to handle"- means working on systems that support R-410a refrigerant. I stand corrected, I assumed since no license is required to purchase it, no license is required to install it. 1 posts, read 147,284 times 1 posts, read 144,056 times DEaler not compling with warranty 342 posts, read 1,022,362 times Best MatchPrice, Low to HighPrice, High to Low The Condenser is the outdoor unit to the system, and it works together with the compressor. In a cooling process, the compressor pressurizes the refrigerant into a hot liquid, and in a heating process it would be the opposite, with the refrigerantAs the refrigerant journeys into the condenser, and thru its many coils, the heat from the liquid escapes out of the condensers fins and by the time the liquid gets to the end of the coils it is a lot cooler, but it is still highlyThis liquid leaves the condenser thru a valve with a small diameter as mist, it then turns into a gas when it starts going into the evaporator coil, which then gets cooled by the evaporator coil and blown out by the fan into the ducted

The Higher the Seer Rating the More you Save! Seasonal energy efficiency ratio(SEER) is the Cooling Output divided by the total electric energy input during the same period. The higher the SEER rating the more energy efficient the unit is. Top 500 Internet Retailers List, Inc. 5000 fastest growing companies, 100,000+ products shipped; Over 80,000 sq. ft. logistic center. Safest Place to Shop Online Secure Online Shopping Experience; we do more to protect your Information and Transactions. Free Shipping automatically on Orders over $%ssc-freeship%!1-1/2 Ton 208/230 Volt 1-Phase Air Conditioning and Heat Pump Compressor.In Stock 2-1/2 Ton to 3 Ton 208/230 Volts 1-Phase R-22 Compressor Direct Factory Replacement Part (Copeland RIn Stock 3 Ton 208/230 Volt 1-Phase R-22 Air Conditioning Compressor (New Upgraded Model)In Stock 3 Ton Up To 4 Ton 208/230 Volt 1-Phase Residential/Commercial R-22 Compressor SWEAT FITTINGS (CopelaIn Stock Do you know what size your air conditioner is?

In the world of building science, you'll hear a lot of talk about why oversized air conditioners are a bad idea. Briefly, they may not dehumidify as well, short-cycling wears them out quicker, and your home will probably be less comfortable if the air conditioner is too big. But to know if your AC is oversized, first you have to know what size it is. (Note: This article is about finding the size of your existing AC, not determining what size you need.) Look for the label The good news is that most HVAC manufacturers make it easy to determine the nominal capacity of your air conditioner. It's in the model number. Go outside and find the outdoor unit, that metal noisemaker hidden away on the side or the back of the house. It'll look something like the one you see above, although maybe not quite so decrepit as that one. Then find the lable that gives the data about your AC. It'll look like the image below. Up near the top of the label, you see the model number (M/N) and serial number (S/N).

The model number is where you can find the number you're looking for. Not all manufacturers do this, but most will give you a 2 or 3 digit section that tells you how many thousands of BTU/hour your air conditioner can move out of your home. The first section in the model number gives you info about the type and efficiency of the unit you're looking at. In the case of this Lennox model (which, by the way, is not from the outdoor unit shown at the top of this article), the 13HPX tells you it's a heat pump with an efficiency rating of 13 SEER. The digits you need Just past that string of 5 characters, though, is the part that tells you the nominal size: 048. That means the air conditioner—or heat pump in cooling mode in this case—has a nominal capacity of 48,000 BTU/hour. I say nominal because the actual capacity is almost certainly going to be different. The numbers you'll see on residential air conditioners and heat pumps are: The 3 digits in the model number tell you the nominal capacity in thousands of BTU/hr.