Show All ItemsLED strips are a very fun and effective way to give lots of glow and color to a project. In this Instructable you will learn about the basic kinds of strips and how to hook them up to the Intel Edison with Arduino breakout board. These circuits include hardware needed for external power and how to set up a button and potentiometer to blink and fade using Intel's special flavor of Eclipse IDE and their LPD8806 library.Step 1: Analog Show All ItemsThere are two basic kinds of LED strips, analog and digital. They are controlled differently, so it's good to know which one you need for your project. Analog strips come in mono (one color) or RGB (full color spectrum). They are sold on reels and can be cut into small segments. The segments are marked by metal contact pads and sometimes have a scissors icon screen printed right on them (love those!). The strips shown here are segmented in 5cm and 10cm lengths, each segment containing 3 LEDs. Usually strips use 30, 32, 60 or 120 LEDs per meter, which will change price and power consumption.

For each segment the LEDs are wired in series, which means the operating voltages are added up, giving the higher voltage needed. All of the segments are wired in parallel, so they get all get the same amount of voltage all the way down the strip, but the current draw adds up depending on the length of the strip. For more information on how to power your strip, skip to step 3.BehaviorThe LEDs that fade and blink together, stay together. All the LEDs on the strip will act as one, they are non-addressable. One way to tell by sight is that they do not have any driver chips that you can see on the strip (that would be digital!). (LEDLIGHTINGHUT LTD), Now you can shopping for LED products with high quality and low price directly from our LED manufacturer, with wide range of products include Single Color Flex LED Strips, RGB Color Changing LED Strips,  Digital Intelligent ( Dream Color) Flexible LED Light Strips, Digital RGB LED Pixels/Modules, E27/GU10/MR16/G4/G9 LED Bulbs, Automotive LED Light Bulbs

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16x16 NeoPixel WS2812B Digital Flexible LED Panel (Matrix), DC5V Input APA104 Digital Intelligent RGB LED Strip Light, 144 LED/M, 5VDC 7W High Power Red/Blue E27 LED Grow Light LUMIFA LUMIFA LED light strips provide bright, long-lasting illumination! LUMIFA LED light strips consistently supply radiant illumination levels, while producing minimal heat, making them perfect for everything from food displays and freezer units in grocery stores, to machine tools, food processing equipment, printing machines, production systems and more. Whether you need low energy lighting (LF1A), compact lighting (LF1B), super bright lighting (LF1D), lighting rated for water, oil and dust (LF2D), lighting perfect in freezing environments (LF1E) or lighting for visual inspection (LF1F), the LUMIFA family of LED light strips are the solution! Control Panels • Industrial Equipment • Brightness: 62.5 Lumens/Watt • Space saving: Width 27.5mm; Machine Tools • Food & Beverage Processing Equipment

- Slim: 66.6 Lumens/Watt - Wide: 67.2 Lumens/Watt • Life: 70% of initial luminance at 50,000 Hrs • IP69K (high pressure and high temperature washdown) • Recessed mounting provides • Slim units: 40mm (w) x 29mm (h). Using mounting brackets, one-step installation in a narrow space is possible. • Five Lengths (210/330/580/830/1,080mm) are offered to meet space requirements and illumination coverages. Freezers • Refrigerated Display Cases • Testing Chambers • Three types of light distribution: no-lens, condensing and dual • Life: 70% of initial luminance at 40,000 Hrs • IP54 protection against dust and water Control Panels • Manufacturing Equipment • Brightness: 66.6 Lumens/Watt • Energy saving: One-third of fluorescent lamps Visual Inspection Lighting • Elevator Ceiling Lighting • Long operating life • 300mm square illuminated surface I am finishing my basement and would like to do 2 sets of LED strip lights.

One will go in a small 4x8 room under my stairs, another a large theater room 13' x 15'. I am a beginner when it comes to electrical wiring, but usually not afraid to tackle something and learn something new. I have been reading a lot online trying to figure out how to put this together and wanted to run my thoughts by the exchange and see if i'm on track, and ask for a few recommendations. I'm looking at using some lights like this: From my research, If I want to wire directly from my circuit breaker box, I need to buy one of these, but I'm not sure how many watt to buy? My plan is to just stick this in my utility room right by my circuit box. Here is a rough sketch of what I think I'm going to do. I just want someone to tell me if this is right? Just to outline my questions: What watt power transformer should I be using? Can I run 14 gauge wire directly from a circuit 15 amp breaker to the transformer? Can I plug in all 5 circuits of LED strips on top of each other to the output of the transformer?

Is this the recommended way of doing what I'm trying to accomplish? I would also like to add a on/off switch, do they make a wall switch for 12v? Can low volt wires come right out of the wall, or do they need a junction box before being connected to the LED strip lights? 7. After some additional reading last night I saw that the cheap LED strips on Amazon can get very hot? I plan to light a children's room under my stairs with a very low ceiling. I also read that more expensive lights should not get as hot? My main reason for choosing LED lights was for low heat in a confined area. Dose anyone have any experience with the heat output of these lights? You can use a power supply like the one pictured, rated for the amount of LED's you will be driving. Read the specs on the lighting. They should tell you how many watts per a given length of the strip. So if it says, for example, that needs about 1 watt per meter, then a 15-foot section would require a 5 watt power supply.

Take your total length of 76 feet, and divide by the strip's requirements. It wouldn't surprise me if you ended up somewhere in the ballpark of 20 to 30 watts.You can't put the power supply inside the wall, and you can't bring the wire out of the wall without going through a junction box. The best way to do this is to put a cord on that power supply, and plug it into an existing outlet. There is no need whatsoever to add a new circuit or connect these directly to a circuit breaker. Yes, you can wire multiple strings in parallel at the power supply. If the sections are short, you can also wire them end-to-end. Double-check the specs for maximum length of a single run. The recommended way is to plug into an existing outlet. If your lighting requirements added up to 1000 watts, you'd want a new circuit. At 20, 30 or 50 watts, it is ridiculously small in household circuit requirements. Any switch can be used for 12v. I would put the switch before the power supply. Put a cord on the power supply like this cord with switch.

The low voltage wires don't need a junction box, but they do need a junction plate, like those used for phone jacks. Did you find this question interesting? Sign up for our newsletter and get our top new questions delivered to your inbox (). After looking at the NEC code book, you need to limit it to 5 amps, but with 16 gauge wire at 5 amps you would have a voltage drop of 2V after 50 feet (I making an assumption about what you mean when you say longer run). You probably want also want to fuse each line from the transformer individually, because if it shorts it will pull 8 amps from the 100w transformer if not otherwise limited. If I was going to rig something like that up at my house, I'd probably use an automotive fuse bus and use 2A fuses for each (24w) strip. If installing a switch, I'd probably switch the entire transformer running 120 to the switch like other lighting and placing the transformer and fuses in a closet close to the strips to reduce voltage drop.