Enter your model number and our Instant Repairman will help diagnose and fix your appliance Need help finding your model number? How to test an icemaker's water inlet valve : Before you begin to test your icemaker's water inlet valve, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box. Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this test.Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve.

Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers.

Do not pull on the wires themselves. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve. If the test you conduct with your icemaker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component. How to replace an icemaker water inlet valve.Last year we bought a shiny new Whirlpool fridge, french-door style with the bottom freezer. Eight short months later, water started leaking out the bottom of the freezer & pooling onto the floor. Apparently it had been leaking for awhile because when I pulled the fridge out, I found the water had been draining toward the back wall, quietly warping our hardwood floor. We don’t have the icemaker hooked up so it was definitely a defrost problem, caused by a little drain grommet.

Thanks for nothing, Whirlpool. Fixing the drain is easy & takes about an hour, although that’s mostly time spent watching ice melt during which you should eat all your ice cream. Ebay Puppies For Sale Buffalo NyIt’s probably 20 minutes of actual work. Prom Dress Rentals In Charlotte NcHere’s how to fix it — you’ll need a 1/4″ nut driver & a flat-head screwdriver. Shower Diverter Repair KitAll the screws on my fridge had the slot in the top, so you could do it all with just the screwdriver. Step 1: Don’t kill yourself. You can wait until later but don’t forget. Step 2: Freezer door. It’s 4 screws, one in each corner. Just loosen them a few turns — don’t take the screws out entirely — it’s much easier putting the door back on when the screws are already in place.

The door slides up & off. Step 3: Lower basket. It lifts out, no tools required. Now’s a good time to start eating all your ice cream. Step 4: Upper basket. Remove the 2 screws at the front of the rails, then lift up the rails slightly on each side, to slide the basket forward. On the plastic pieces at the back sides of the upper basket, push in two tabs with your screwdriver on each piece & pop them up. This will let the upper basket slide out off the rails.Remove the lower screw, then loosen or remove the two screws above the icemaker. Unplug the wire harness where it passes through the rear panel — squeeze the sides of the plug & pull. Lift the icemaker up & out. The water tube will slide out of the guide. Step 6: Plastic guards. The thermostat guard is the skinny piece to the upper right. Push in (to the right) the tab on the left side in the middle. The guard opens like a door pivoting on the right edge, & pulls out. The center fan guard has two tabs at the top on each end that push in toward the center, & another tab in the middle at the bottom of the guard that pops up.

Step 7: Freezer panel. Remove the 4 screws in each corner. Push the thermostat back through the slot at the top, & also push the icemaker plug back through its slot. FAST/HARD WAY: Pull carefully up & out from the top middle edge. Be careful because that sucker is SHARP! The back panel will bend vertically in the middle as you remove it, but it’s flexible & will pop back into shape. SLOW/EASY WAY: If you don’t like bending the panel around the drawer slides, you can take off the slides. The metal rails have tabs that push in to release the whole slide assembly, which pulls out forward. You only need to take the rail housings off one side — when you go to remove the rear panel, just pull that side first. To release the upper section (that you already unscrewed in Step 4), left it up, bend in & pull out — the back end has a tab through the freezer wall. The lower plastic slide housing unscrews with 4 screws. Step 8: Ice Dam. By now you should see the ice problem.

Typically the entire evaporator tray is completely iced, along with some of the tubing. Warm water applied with a turkey baster works well. Be careful not to puncture the coils because … that will ruin your fridge. Do all the ice melting while the drain is still plugged so it runs out into the freezer floor where you can sponge it up. If the meltwater goes out through the drain hole, it can flood the pan under the fridge — no big deal, just dirtier water & more mess. The drain hole is near the front of the rear tray in the middle. It’s pretty wide (1/2″) & short, only ~2 inches long. It goes straight down into a rubber “duck bill” grommet that’s probably plugged up with gunk, that you access from the back of the fridge… Step 9: Drain grommet. Pull out the fridge so you can access the back side. Remove the screws (6?) around the lower access panel, pop the power cord up & tilt the panel out of the way. The plastic tray under the fan is the evaporator tray — that’s where the water SHOULD normally be dripping into & evaporating from.

Behind (technically in front of) the fan, there’s a black drain slide into the tray that leads up to your plugged drain. Push the slide aside to see the drain. There’s a rubber “duck bill” grommet on the end. Pull it off & clean it — it’s no doubt plugged with gunk. Better yet, trim the opening very slightly so the hole is larger — see this site for photos. Step 10: Put it all back together. Some tips: if you lived hard/fast & didn’t remove the rails & rail housing, getting the freezer panel back in place can be a bitch. Make sure you slide the tray rails all the way out before you start trying to put the rear panel back. Bend the panel vertically along the middle so it springs back into place on each side. Once it’s in place, don’t forget to run the thermostat wire & icemaker tube/plug out. When you put the the top tray back, make sure it’s all the way to the front before you pop the plastic pieces on each side back down, so the gears on each side are aligned in matching grooves.